Postcard from Perth

Dear Friend <insert your name here>

What fun! Being a tourist right here in Perth last week turned out to be quite the adventure, particularly since someone else had organised the mystery day trip! As ever I arrived at the meeting point in good time (!), joining the small crowd of enthusiastic day trippers lurking in a patch of early morning sunshine. The weather forecast was for clear skies all morning, with clouds and wind gathering as the afternoon progressed, so there was a goodly smattering of fluffy scarves, umbrellas and hats.

None of us had any idea where we were headed or what was involved – other than our lunch, which we’d all pre-ordered. The only clue we got from the anonymised menu was that we’d probably end up at a pub. We tried teasing information out of the guide, much to his amusement, but he remained tight-lipped and mysterious, telling us all would be revealed “in good time“. So we trooped on board the small bus and, settling in, eavesdropping on discussions at the front of the bus like kids out on an excursion – with about as much success! Then, finally, it was hi-ho and off we go!

I’ve discovered that bus travel is surprisingly relaxing. The need to navigate routes and negotiate with traffic is removed, along with any stress involved. This, along with the elevated vantage point, leaves me free to gaze out the window and notice the things I simply don’t have time to pay attention to when behind the wheel – the scudding clouds, the urban renewal, the flowers in people’s gardens – I love it!

By the time we’d been on the road for about half an hour, consensus was that we were probably headed for the Swan Valley – although by a somewhat circuitous route. As it turns out, our first stop was the town of Guildford, originally the centre of the Swan River Colony and sometimes referred to as ‘the gateway to the Swan Valley’ – so were definitely on the right track. Despite its historic significance, we weren’t in Guildford for the heritage buildings. Instead, we were guided into the Guildford Milk Bar for coffee, cake and a comfort stop for those who needed it. The cafe was a hubbub of activity, with groups of cyclists at the outdoor tables and numerous others inside. Our tables had been reserved, so all we had to do was place our orders and take a seat.

But, having had a good breakfast before setting off, I opted instead to heed the siren song of the book exchange next door – and what a good choice that turned out to be! You’d love it there! It’s been a good long while since I’ve come across such a well-stocked second hand book store, especially a Science Fiction/Fantasy section. I happily whiled away our break, gloating over future purchases and hatching plans to return with more time on hand – and someone to carry my loot!

Our next destination was the Battistessa Studio in Herne Hill. Master Forger Antonio was there to greet us, full of boundless bonhomie and enthusiasm. He’s a delightful character, warm and welcoming, keen to share the history of the property, his family and how he created his studio when he was 20, as well as the basics of forge use. It was fascinating to watch him turn a steel bar into a decorative (and useful) marshmallow fork. I just wish I’d had the foresight to have some marshmallows readily to hand so that we could sit around all afternoon toasting them and listening to more of his stories. Ah well…

After exploring the studio, I headed outdoors to pick sun-ripened mandarins and eat them as I wandered through the metal storage yard (such treasure waiting to be transformed!) and down to the building site where Antonio has a massive kiln under construction. This community project has been going for over two years, with much of the construction materials donated by sponsors and labour by locals. They’re about to start construction on the chimney and are hoping to have the kiln up and running by the end of the year. What a community asset that will be – I’ll definitely be back to see that!

Piling back on the bus, I felt content. The mystery tour had already peaked for me – the Battistessa visit being a highlight no-one would have cared to miss.

Lunchtime had sneaked up on us and, despite snacking on the juiciest mandarins I’ve eaten in years, my ever-willing stomach was telling me it was ready for our pub visit – but yet another surprise awaited! Just a few minutes away, nestled between the Swan River, Guildford Grammar Prep, Governor Stirling High and the heritage-listed Woodbridge House, is Riverside Cafe – a delightful venue and not a pub in sight! The view from our patio table across the Swan River made the meal taste all the finer, sunshine glinting off the water and on grapevines across on the other side. Hats off to the kitchen and wait staff at the cafe, by the way – the meals were delicious and the service extremely prompt.

Wandering around the gardens after lunch I came across what I thought was a beautiful Red Hot Poker (plant) set in garden bed of succulents. It reminded me immediately of South Africa and the aloes endemic to the Highveld. Silly me, I actually said that out loud – then felt quite disappointed when a ‘knowledgeable garden-guru’ from our group informed me that I was quite incorrect (!) and that the Red Hot Poker is actually an altogether different plant and not an aloe at all. Who knew? Anyhow, apparently what I’ve called a Red Hot Poker my whole life is probably a Krantz aloe (Aloe arborescens / Torch Aloe) in flower. Or not. More research required! Either way, it is quite beautiful and the nostalgic feels were all there.

Our final stop for the day was Gomboc Gallery and Sculpture Park – always a pleasure to visit. My favourite piece (this time) was The Natural World – a stunning work by Philippa O’Brien that brings all the tales of wood nymphs to life. She’s encrusted with what looks like banksia and it’s hard to tell whether she’s stepping out into the world, or has paused halfway to decide. She seems to stand guard over the trees, brought into the world in the medium of bronze – perhaps to ensure she survives if one or more of her charges fails to flourish. I wonder if she weeps when bushfires come through, leaving ash and smoke behind them? Or does she exult in the knowledge that regrowth will take place in due course, that nature will have her way? I could gaze at her for days and find something new and different every time.

My wood nymph left me reflective as we headed home. This mystery tour was jam-packed with sights, sounds, tastes and laughter and I very much enjoyed this being-a-tourist-in-my-own-town thing. It made me see and think about things differently. Perhaps next time you could join me? Until then, all the best, N.